Development of a method to study retention of hydrophobic actives from cosmetic emulsions on optimized skin biomimics

Gkotsis, Georgios (2019). Development of a method to study retention of hydrophobic actives from cosmetic emulsions on optimized skin biomimics. University of Birmingham. Ph.D.

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Abstract

All-in-one products are a popular trend in cosmetics, personal and home care. In particularly, personal care products that serve multiple purposes are especially popular due to their multifunctional action which simultaneously provides cleaning, conditioning and protection of the treated area such as, skin or hair, in a fraction of the time in comparison to when using traditional products.

In this research programme, a dedicated method was developed towards the evaluation of the conditioning performance of ‘all-in-one’ cleansing products. Hence, all steps of product usage were replicated in a controlled environment and suitable characterization methods were employed.

Optimized skin mimics were fabricated to be used as test substrates and model systems of cosmetic formulations were produced, which demonstrated both cleaning and moisturizing capabilities as well as a repetitive and highly-controlled deposition set-up and a cleaning set-up.

The conditioning performance of the emulsions was studied and post-wash retention levels of the hydrophobic active on skin bio-mimics were systematically characterised. Techniques including fluorescent microscopy, gravimetric analysis and tribometry were employed to provide further, into-depth quantitative data of the retention.

Properties of the formulation including oil droplet-size, viscosity and volume-fraction and cleaning parameters including rinsing-duration and flow-angle were tested for their impact on retention.

Type of Work:

Thesis (Doctorates > Ph.D.)

Award Type:

Doctorates > Ph.D.

Supervisor(s):